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Whenever compiling a list of London’s best eateries, one might expect renowned award-winning names. But, situated high among these gastronomic titans is a unpretentious salonu situated in a far-flung corner of northern London.

A Unexpected Recognition

This small Turkish eatery, focusing in the culinary delights of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s south coast, has been named the 4th best restaurant in the capital by a respected food magazine. The recognition has made the proprietors completely shocked.

“I’m completely astonished,” says the family member, alluding to his family’s dedication that culminated in their small place achieving such a high position on a notable 99-strong list.

The Appeal of Simplicity

The compact space, which used to be a simple cafe before its transformation into a popular food hotspot, has maintained much of its former feel. It fits just more than 20 people and, aside from the impressive live cooking show, the layout remains essentially unchanged. “It is a tiny and intimate place,” says the owner.

The Star Dish: Tantuni

Ultimately, it’s focused on the food, and this eatery more than delivers. The restaurant’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated joy. The meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to preserve a tender quality.

The meat is then added into a large pan with seasonings and oil, which are incorporated in gradually. When the meaty mixture starts to simmer, freshly made lavaş—a pliable bread—is placed on top to take in all the flavours. Thinly sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley go inside before the flavourful meat is rolled securely inside.

The wrap is typically consumed with a drop of lemon or some pickles. The end result is a mighty burst of taste, with gentle hints of sumac, bold onions and red, paprika-infused oil pulling it all together.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is sliced and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. The prominent food critic described this dish “among London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

When it comes to dessert, the restaurant’s künefe goes down a delight. It is doused in a more modest amount of syrup than is typical, resulting in it a deeper, toastier and not overly sweet profile.

Outranking the Stars

Notably, this modest restaurant has outplaced several illustrious three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself close to the peak of the list, trailing other notable dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave the restaurant stuffed for less than £25, equivalent experiences at top-tier establishments can run into many times that figure.

The Ethos of Hospitality

It is also among several Turkish restaurants featured and is located well outside the city’s prime zones. “It is not focused on luxury. London is an costly city. There is an expectation that in an expensive place you’re going to have the top service and best food but I do not believe in that,” states the owner.

“I believe what is paramount is hospitality, kindness and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

The view is echoed by the list’s editor, who stated that if he were in a role of power, he would “require to make every chef in London come to this restaurant as a finishing school, to teach them the dangers of excess, and to reveal what is attainable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their absolute best”.

The Path of Hard Work

Unlike most chefs heading kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the driving force behind the food didn’t work at fancy restaurants. “I feel very proud of our shop and our mum,” adds her son.

Many restaurants take years to become successful, but this eatery first launched seven years ago. Its success is due to relentless, seven-day weeks of work.

“My mum used to be extremely tired. She would source produce in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Each item is prepared manually; she would manage all of this. She is a single mother and she managed a personal life but her friends would visit to help her. She was raising children and a house to care for as well. Each of these roles shaped her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he shares.

An Recognition for the Community

The restaurant’s recognition is set to resonate outside its own walls. “In my opinion a lot of people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” notes the owner, emphasising the greater meaning of this gastronomic honour.